March 31

Happy Easter! I started my morning with a quick run. I was loving how quiet the city was. There were tons of runners out (say what?!) and my running socks nearly blew off when I passed a runner that wished me a happy Easter in Italian. Never, ever has another runner even looked me in the eyes! I picked Grandma and Mom up from their hotel (ok ok, I may have "picked up" a lot of nutella, cheese, apples, and jams from the hotel breakfast to take back with me too) and we headed to the Duomo. We had heard there would be a ceremony for Easter at 10:30 and we thought we should check it out. The quiet city I had at my fingertips just a few hours earlier was done for. Piazza de Duomo was packed. Packed beyond belief. Packed like my Ryanair carry-on. Packed like my brother Kevin's stomach after Girl Scout cookie season. We could not move--I am absolutely not exaggerating. Mom was laughing that everyone was wearing rain coats because the "swishy" fabric made it easy to rub past people. The ceremony was unlike anything I had ever experienced: a portable temple of sorts was placed in the middle of the square, and after a round of chanting from priests, the temple began shooting fireworks forth, spinning, and revealing flags. Strange, but utterly cool. After we freed our way out, we shopped through San Lorenzo market and then headed to Pitti Palace to see some exhibits and the Boboli Gardens. We had an intermission at an awesome restaurant in Santo Spirito. Mom and Grandma ordered pizza, thinking they had ordered slices (I clearly failed them as their tour guide). They were shocked to see huge pizzas presented before them. Slices of pizza are rare in Italy. I assured them that the Italians eat the entire pizza, using a few Italian women around the restaurant as proof. We re-entered Pitti right as the sun came out and explored the statue-rich gardens. Though beautiful, Mom and Grandma wished they could see them in the spring when things are more lush and colorful. A little bit of shopping later, we stopped in at the hotel for an evening tea pick-me-up. Then, the moment we (I?) I had been waiting for: dinner at Acqua. We ordered the salad sampler (a corn and tomato, raddicchio and fennel, and Greek), pasta sampler (simple tomato, spinach, broccoli, spicy risotto, vegetable ragu), and dessert sampler (tiramisu, blueberry tart, chocolate cake, and cheesecake). We left pleasantly full and exhausted from a day on our feet. Til tomorrow!

March 30

Mom and Grandma arrived today! It was so great to see them. They looked fabulous for having been on a plane for over 8 hours. I was so proud of Grandma for saying, "I'm not tired, let's go!" Mom's first request: a piece of cheese. Anyone who knows my mom would not be surprised in the slightest. They arrived around 9:45 and they couldn't check into the hotel until 2, so we had some time to kill. First stop: the Central Market. We shopped the fruit and vegetable vendors and got Mama a succulent hunk of pecorino cheese and a delicious Tuscan orange. A true Florence experience! Next, we stopped  by my apartment for a quick tour (in fact, I believe it would be impossible to give a long tour of the little place). Mom said that it looked familiar from our Skype sessions, but that it seemed smaller in person! The apartment was covered with my post-spring break laundry explosion of drying racks. Then we hit the town! We cruised through Piazza de Duomo, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Vecchio, saw the river, got cups of tea at a coffee shop, saw LdM classrooms, and grabbed lunch at one of my favorite salad and sandwich shops. These two ladies were kicking jet lag's butt. After they checked into their hotel and saw the comfy beds, they requested a nap. I left them for a few hours and (anxiously!) caught up on emails back at my place. We met again and headed out for dinner. We tried to get a table at Acqua al Due (predictable, predictable), but were immediately turned away and told "not possible." "Not possible" is one of the Italians' favorite phrases. We found a trattoria close by and stopped in after we saw gnocci con gorgonzola e noci (potato pastas with gorgonzola and walnuts) on the menu. It was a charming restaurant with attentive service--a rarity in Florence! We ordered bruschetta with tomatoes (a classic), gnocchi, a cheese sampler, and a side of asparagus (my veggie-lovin' request). Loved hearing about life at home and sharing funny Florence stories. For dessert, we went to none other than Neri Gelateria. Grandma and I got a yogurt-based gelato, flavored with honey and walnuts. Too delicious. Mama went for a Southern Italian classic: cannoli. It was a near perfect day, ending with a walk around the river at night. Bellissimo!

March 29

3:50am. Yikes. What a terrible alarm time. I left Kelsey and Maggie to head back to Florence early so that I can greet my mom and grandmother when they arrive early Saturday! I am so grateful for the two of them. They are always down to try new things and I love having friends that are so easy to talk to. They were the best travel companions and I really think the world of both of them. Back to regularly scheduled programming:  I kid you not, I saw multiple people drinking a pint of Guinness at 5am at the airport. Hey, why be buzzed off of caffeine when you can just have a real buzz? I landed in Milan and took a bus to the city center to catch a train to Florence. I decided I would wait to buy my ticket at the station (as opposed to in-advance online) in case my flight was late and I missed my expensive train. Well, I got to the station with plenty of time, but the next two trains to Florence were all-booked. Never, ever did I think that would happen. I blame it on Easter weekend. I grabbed a plate of pasta and headed on a self-guided walking tour to kill time before my late train arrived. Milan had a few modern buildings, but I was shocked it maintains its reputation of being the fashion capital of Europe. It seemed too...normal...to be so embedded within the glamorous high-end fashion world. A speedy train ride later in a seat across from a woman who looked exactly like my Aunt Suzy, I was home in Florence. It was notably packed with more tourists than usual and the weather felt warm compared to the UK. Many loads of laundry later, I am laying in bed, tired to the core. It reminds me of the times as a kid I would fall totally helpless to sleep in the car after a long day and Dad would have to carry me to bed.

March 28

Another early morning for us spring breakers. We booked a bus tour to the Cliffs of Moher! We had toyed with the idea of renting a car and driving to the Cliffs, but settled on a bus tour for peace of mind. It is truly a challenge to get used to traffic being on the left. At crosswalks, it is often painted on the curb "Look left" or "look right" to help unsuspecting tourists like myself know which way they are about to be struck by incoming traffic. The tour stopped through a few smaller Irish towns before reaching the Cliffs. We grabbed lunch as a group at a cafeteria designed to accommodate charter buses. The Cliffs of Moher were beyond beautiful. Mother Nature, you did good, lady. Their sheer vertical rise is captivating enough, but the bright green Irish grass paired with the blues of the Atlantic and sky were unreal. Looking down, my stomach flipped and I got the willies. There were a few too many "Call these numbers if you need to talk" posters and the insistence that all entrants check-in and out for "numbers control" to make me a little uncomfortable. I kept comparing the Cliffs to Cinque Terre--Cinque was much more private and tucked away, you had to really search for the views. The Cliffs, on the other hand, came at you full force, putting everything out there. Also, much smaller than Cinque, there were fellow tourists every-which-way, but I didn't mind in the slightest with those kind of view. As we were exiting the park, we (get this) ran into a girl in our same sorority that graduated last year. How surreal to see a familar face from home while in Ireland! She is teaching English in Spain and was traveling this week. We arrived in Dublin around dinner time. Kelsey had scouted out a traditional Irish pie restaurant for dinner, but unfortunately it was already closed by the time we arrived. We spotted a gourmet grocery store and thought we'd check it out. It was deli counter style and I saw a Moroccan fish stew with my name on it. Portions were massive and I did the very lady like thing of unbuttoning my pants mid-meal. While we waited for our food to be served, Kelsey and Maggie had a freak-out moment at the deli counter when they realized that their favorite dessert--a Biscoff cookie spread, think Biscoff cookie peanut butter--was being sold at the grocery store. They are certifiably obsessed with the stuff! They debated whether it was worth the cost and eventually put the jar down. Now get this. A man and his middle school aged daughter came up to our table as we were eating with a small grocery bag. He said, "Please exchange it if it is not the right flavor," smiled, and walked away. He had overheard Mags and Kels, and bought them the jar of cookie butter. Luck of the Irish? Heart of the Irish? Either way, it was a moment to be remembered. I loved seeing the sweet smile of his young daughter and knowing she will remember the time her kind father helped some crazy Americans get a cookie butter fix. The night at the hostel was...interesting...and I am going to abstain from complaining to keep with the spirit of my great spring break. But...yeah...interesting. 

March 27

A snowy morning greeted us as we waited for our airport shuttle at a bus stop. It is easy to look at the price for a plane ticket at a discount airline (I have a love-hate relationship with Ryanair) and think, this is cheap travel! However, there are a lot of additional travel costs that I (naively) didn't fully take into account. Shuttle to the Edinburgh airport, plane to Dublin (behind a sca-reeeaming baby), public bus to Dublin city center, and then a (free) walk to the hostel. With so many legs to the trip, it really does add up. But, in relation to travel costs in the US, traveling Europe is a steal. We breezed through customs and Dublin was ours for the taking. Dublin was a bit, well, dirty and I haven't heard so many swear words from passerby conversations anywhere in my life. But, it is truly a part of the charm of the city. The city screams, "Yeah, I'm Dublin, this is how I am, I love where I came from, and I am not changing for anyone. Now, who wants a pint?" I thought often about my distant family that emigrated from Ireland. The highlight of the afternoon was a tour of the Guinness factory. The tour takes place at the Storehouse--a huge, modern building designed to look like a pint glass used just for tours. Water, barley, yeast, and hops. All the ingredients in Ireland's most famous brew. It was fascinating to see how ingrained and proud the Irish are of the beer. It truly is a part of the culture. Get this: Guinness, the founder, signed a 9000 year lease on the property in the 1800s, so to this day, rent is still just 45 pounds a month. It is arguably the best real estate deal ever made. The tour included a pint of the good stuff, but I could only stomach a quarter or so. That is one acquired taste I'm not sure I will ever acquire. By this afternoon, I was stuck in a bit of a funk. I think the close-to-home culture, paired with nights of only semi-restful sleep at the hostels had caught up to me. Just one of those days. We had a fabulous dinner, though. A vegetarian Indian restaurant that we stumbled upon. For 5.50, you can load your small plate with as much food as you'd like. It was fabulous and delicious--so refreshing to have tastes of ginger, curry, and chili, which are not found in Italy. I tried a aubergine something, a beet salad, brown rice, a chickpea something, a carrot salad, and a black-eyed pea something. I left pleasantly stuffed. Our Dublin hostel isn't bad, per se, but it is fairly hostel-ly, if you catch my drift. I actually woke up with a bruise on my leg from the unpadded mattress springs. Roughin' it in the best way. 

March 26

We set out this morning to climb Arthur's Peak--an old, inactive volcano that hits high over Edinburgh that boasts 360 degrees of the city from its peak. It was a lovely hike over green Scottish grass that was just challenging enough to get my blood pumping to keep warm. At the peak, I had one of those "Wait, Caroline, don't forget for a second  you are in Scotland right now" check-ins with myself at the peak. What is it about views and water that universally brings people in?! I think we all enjoy the moments where we are forced to feel small every once in a while. We had a treat in mind for lunch: traditional afternoon tea at a girly restaurant called the Tigerlilly. It was a little pricey, but we decided that it was a "worth it" expense. I had English breakfast tea served with tiny portions of a raisin scone, a smidgin of carrot cake, a cupcake of sorts, a cherry tart, salmon sandwich, and egg salad sandwich. I was actually pretty disappointed in the food. I don't have much of a sweet tooth and I found everything a little too sweet, though the raisin scone was my favorite. It was a fun environment though and we had an awesome waitress from Australia! And it was exciting to have an excuse to do something fancy at 4pm. We headed back to the hostel and had a good time getting to know our roommates better. Alma was from Vienna, Austria and traveling by herself, a beautiful French girl (didn't catch her name) staying in Edinburgh long-term to learn English, and two girls from the University of Pittsburgh with huge personalities. We headed out all together to find a drink somewhere. Edinburgh was quiet, but man, some Scottish girls go all out for a Tuesday night. We saw a girl wearing a leotard...without pants. Modesty aside, it was below freezing, so I thought she was crazy. We set our alarms for 5:30am and got ready for an early morning.

March 25

We woke up this morning and were pleased to have strong coffee, muesli with dried fruit, and yogurt. Total step up from corn flakes and room-temperature whole milk which frequents the hostel breakfast lineup. Maggie was brave enough to try Veggie-mite (it was promptly spit out in 4 seconds flat). We bundled and hit Edinburgh. It was fuh-reezing, but we managed to walk around all of the main sites. We saw the Elephant House--the cafe were JK Rowling began writing Harry Potter. The bathroom walls were filled with fan graffiti thanking her for her work. I was touched by one father's note about how JK gave his children the gift of imagination. In hindsight now, I'm bothered by how it was written in the women's bathroom (?). Every store and restaurant drew me in with their craftful logos and colorfully painted facades. I said, "That store looks cute!" enough times to be considered annoying. Maggie got an awesome jean jacket at a vintage store before we stopped in at the free Scottish National History museum more out of coldness than curiosity. By this time, we were defrosting and hungry, so we knew there was only one remedy: soup. I have had great luck using TripAdvisor for restaurant recommendations--I have found that having a place or activity in mind, as opposed to just "wandering" makes for more pleasant traveling. Union of Genius came highly recommended for its hearty, healthy soups. They had very limited seating, so we people watched to wait for one of the two tables to open. But, once we were served our trio of soup and bread samples, the wait for a table didn't matter. Tomato and red pepper, leek and potato, and curried coconut sweet potato with wholemeal, olive, and poppy breads. Hit the spot in all kinds of ways. We then regrouped at the hostel and made plans to grab Mexican (it had been too long) and go to a comedy club. Mexican dinner was mediocre. I decided to try ceviche--something I had seen plenty of times on Top Chef, but never actually tried. It was fine, but I left wishing I had ordered something warm and cheesy. The comedy club was having their Monday beginner's night event, boasting over 10 acts. We went into it knowing it would be hit or miss. I ordered some cider (adult apple juice and I really enjoyed it) and got ready for the show. We were pleasantly surprised! Some acts were laugh out loud funny, some were clearly, um, learning the art of comedy (that's P.C., right?), some had such heavy accents we had trouble understanding! The three of us had a great time; the laughs were definitely worth the 2 pound cover charge (Russell, you would have loved it here). The highlights in the acts included a choreographed dance to a song mashup and stories about penguins at the Edinburgh zoo.

March 24

We were up and at it this morning. The hostel provided a free breakfast with some toast and cereals. We bought Tube tickets and set out for sightseeing. We first headed to Buckingham Palace. The square was surprisingly very open and quiet, making me think Sunday is a quiet day for most Londoners. I wore my red Northface windbreaker and black beanie, so we had a laugh about how similar I looked to the Royal Guard. We strolled through Hyde Park and made a quick pit stop for coffee in the most glamorous McDonald's we had ever seen (we justified getting McDonald's with this reasoning). Next stop was Camden Market. Lots of vendors selling trashy, yet classic tourist items for dirt cheap. It was crowded and fun walking through the market. At the very end, we came to the food vendors. Seeing any trends? The vendors were all about free samples. Harrison and Kevin--think Costco on Sunday, times 10. I nearly filled up on samples before my lunch. I tried Indian falafel, Peruvian chickpeas, churros of questionable nationality, mulled wine, Spanish paella, and more (my attempt to "linger" around the crepe stand for a sample was unfruitful). I settled on nearly the same lunch I had yesterday: Falafel, chickpeas, couscous and carrot salad, topped with yogurt sauce for 3 pounds. Done and done. I could barely eat, though, because my hands were so cold. The coldest I have felt since studying abroad was at Camden that afternoon. I bought a tiny cup of tea for a whopping 2 pounds in my desperation. We had planned a special trip for the afternoon: a stop at the largest Whole Foods in the world. We thought it would be fun to hit up the salad bar and take the salads on our five hour train to Edinburgh that afternoon. Wow. Upon stepping into the store, Maggie pulled out her camera to take a photo. The camera was immediately swatted down by a security agent at the front door. A no photos policy at a grocery store? Only Whole Foods. The store was so huge I lost Kelsey and Maggie for about 30 minutes. After trying a few samples and making a delicious, gargantuan salad topped with incredible tomato-stewed tofu, we headed to Kings Cross to get our (expensive but scenic) train to Edinburgh. Platform 9 and three quarters was packed with happy-go-lucky Potter fans, reminding me of lines to see Santa at the mall. The line to get a picture was too long, but it was neat to see in person. We were psyched to have a table on the train and were lucky to be seated with a woman from Northern England named Mandy. She reminded me of the "fun mom" that we all knew from one of our high school friends--bubbly, talkative, and holding on to more youth than age. We had a great time talking back and forth about cultural differences, school policies, travel plans, raising children, and Edinburgh. She warned us that Scottish men wearing kilts typically don't wear any--cough, cough--underwear. Five hours and a Whole Foods salad later, we arrived in Edinburgh (pronounced like Ed-in-boro). Why on earth was I expecting a quaint, quiet town lined with cottages? I thought I would be honing Kate Winslett in The Holiday. It was a modern town, lined with modern shops, but all overlooked by a huge, Medieval looking castle on a cliff. We checked into our hostel--a huge, multistory building fusing Mellow Mushroom-decor with frat house-style halls. Zonked out.

March 23

I'm a morning person, but a 3:45am alarm clock was killer. We were off to the train station by 4:20am to catch our bus to Pisa. After a killer head-bobbing, neck-kranked, half-asleep ride, we arrived at the airport, ready to be bossed around by Ryanair. Somehow (somehow!) my bookbag with running shoes tied to it passed their strict baggage standards. There are study abroad rumors about kids stuffing their pockets with underwear or wearing three shirts onto the plane to keep the carryon bag small. Two and a half hours later, we arrived in warm, tropical London. By warm and tropical, I mean cold and snowing. But, I was shocked how much I appreciated signs all in English--something I didn't know I missed. Customs was a breeze and after a quick withdrawal of British pounds from an ATM (the exchange rate was enough to make me say "bloody hell"), we were on our way. Like a crazy person, I trusted a man driving on the left side of the road to take me downtown. I immediately thought London was like NewYork. I was overwhelmed in the best possible way. I loved the city so much, I felt like I was cheating on Florence. What?! Stores that sell more than one type of item? Ethnic foods? I can walk through the streets without being asked "Umbrella for the bella?" Hold on, is that a Whole Foods? It felt so wrong, yet so right. Home--that elusive feeling--was at my fingertips. Well, actually a delicious hummus and chickpea plate of Moroccan food was at my fingertips. We grabbed a fabulous street food lunch from Portobello Road market. Kelsey and I tried the Moroccan vendor, Maggie tried Thai and Indian.  I had to buy (I am one hell of a bargainer) a hat off the streets for 3 pounds. The winds were so strong I had a brain freeze from just walking through the streets. We warmed up in the Science (totally nerded out in the "Who Am I?" exhibit on psychology) and Natural History museums--free admission in both places. We then walked across Millennium Bridge with a quick stop at St. Paul's to try to get some dinner from Burrow Market. We were too late, though, and got there pass closing time. It was actually a welcomed excuse to head back early to the hostel. We were exhausted--plus the hostel had free tea. We booked a 16 person dorm. The huge room was slightly noisy as we tried to sleep, but each bed had curtains around it, so we made the best of a night's sleep in our cave of a bed. 

March 22

The alarm went off at 7am. Kelsey, Maggie, and I started the day--like old times in the fall semester--with an Insanity workout video. Nothing says morning like buff Sean T yelling at you to "get lower!" or "drink your recovery formula." By 9am, we were showered, fed, and boarding a train to Lucca; a small town north of Florence, famous for its 4km walls surrounding it. The town was nothing like what I was expecting. There were as many modern, high-end boutiques as there were historic monuments. The city gracefully made the transition from Gothic town to hip tourist attraction, all while maintaining its charm. If it weren't raining, we would have rented bikes (3 euro an hour!) to ride around on the city walls. We got lunch at a fabulous local spot. A tell-tale sign a restaurant is going to be good: a handwritten menu-of-the-day written in only Italian. (You can deduce any restaurant with a menu in Comic Sans font written only in English is more Newark than Naples). I had an awesome winter bean soup, filled with vegetables and homemade croutons. We took a 3:30pm train back to Florence because we had planned a special treat for Maggie: an hour and a half Ashtanga yoga class at a studio across the river. I was n-e-r-v-o-u-s for the class. I had a traumatizing experience trying to "flip my dog" at a class in Chapel Hill. The studio, called It's Yoga, was beautiful and filled to the brim with fragrant candles, soft lighting, and wall-to-wall windows. We were greeted by the woman teaching the class where she explained it would be all in Italian. The room filled with about 16 yogis (interestingly, mostly shirtless men). The class was challenging and the teacher softly corrected many of my poses. But, the environment of the class couldn't be beat: 16 happy, calm, and able-bodied people completing the sequences of one of the most artistic exercises there are (yes, om-ming was involved). I left the class feeling energized. I really enjoyed it. We grabbed build-your-own-salads for dinner and I packed my bag for spring break. One bookbag. 6 days. 3 cities.

March 21

I woke up early this morning to get in some last minute studying. Yes, studying. I had two midterms today: one in Renaissance Civilization and the other in Italian. Renaissance wasn't a piece of tiramisu, per se, but I think my essay on Massacio's art was enough to seal a good grade. I was actually quite nervous for my Italian exam. The class has covered a lot of material and, geez, Italian has a lot of articles (li, le, lo, la, ne, nel, del, de, l' and on). Poor Maggie had to spend the afternoon alone exploring Florence while Kelsey and I finished up our tests. But, something tells me she didn't mind--Florence ain't all that bad, right? After a horrifying 30 minute wait at the LdM print center to print all of my spring break boarding passes, I met up with Kelsey and Maggie to play tour guide. We stopped by Piazzale Michelangelo and enjoyed the views and live music. By the time dinner rolled around, we had one thing on the brain: Gusta Pizza. Gusta has a huge study abroad student following, but also comes packed with Italians--a sign it has to be good. Gusta didn't open until 7, but we started a line at the entrance of the restaurant around 6:45 that soon wrapped around the building. We were beyond bummed when the manager opened their back door first; the restaurant quickly filled up and we watched with vengeful eyes from the windows in the front. Another 30 minute wait at the back door, and we finally had ordered. My favorite pizza of theirs is called the Gusta: rucola, Parmesan-Reggiano, cherry tomatoes. We shared a small table with another group, but it was all worth the wait. We ended the night with episodes of New Girl (can't tell you how much I missed that show) and I could barely keep my eyes open by 10pm. Pooped, pooped, pooped.

Lots to tell you all...

Lots to come... Just have to catch my breath first. Crazy couple of days, with more craziness coming soon. I'll pop in with updates soon!

The biggest of updates, however, is the fact that my phone and back-up digital camera are both not working. So, I invite you to attraversiamo with me to a new blog direction: a post a day where my writing will (hopefully!) paint the picture of my life abroad.

March 20

Maggie has arrived! We grabbed dinner at Kitsch (my new favorite!) after my two midterms. Two midterms tomorrow, and then I am free, free, free as a bird. Spring break, here we come. 

March 19

Midterms. Don't forget that I am here to study abroad. 

March 18

We are back in business, baby! The iPhone gods have been kind to me and the phone magically turned on today. Or, maybe Harrison used his birthday wish to help me out? I am happy to have it back. Here is a glimpse at my past week (clockwise, starting from the top left): views on Cinque Terre, a bouquet of flowers a Cinque Terre local gave me when we passed on the trails, Russell taking his spicy salami pizza to the oven in cooking class, the frescoes in the Duomo, and getting aperitivo at Kitsch. 

March 17

I woke up this morning with lots of energy. It's incredible how much a good night's sleep can set the tone for the rest of the day. I drank a big 'ol cup of coffee (instant granules, very classy, very study abroad) and studied for my midterms. I took an afternoon break and headed to the Cascine Park for a run. I love running there on weekend afternoons because it's always full of families and children. I saw the cutest scene of a dad and his small daughter squatting on the river bank, sharing a panino while watching ducks in the Arno River. I always get a sense of nastalgia when I see families spending time together on the weekends. Makes me wish I was sitting at Jason's Deli with my goofy family--a Saturday tradition back at home. St. Patrick's Day was only celebrated by American study abroad students. My guess is that most Italians did not even know it was a special holiday.

I was treated to both a fabulous and horrible meal at Acqua al Due for Kelsey's parents' last night in Italy. They flew in last Saturday and spent the week traveling far and wide within Tuscany and abroad. The food, as always, was tasty as could be. We started with the house Chianti, were served tomato bruschetta and rosemary white bean dip, shared a pasta sampler (spicy broccoli was my favorite), I ordered a vegetable ragu pasta for my entree (ginormous portion), and we split the dessert sampler. We, unfortuntately, were seated in a rather rude server's section. I felt terrible that the Kessler's had to end their stay here on a bad service note. Otherwise, I am gearing up here for a week of midterms, a visit to Florence from Maggie, a day-trip to Venice, spring break in London, Edinburgh, and Dublin, and a fabulous week with my mom and grandma. Pinch me.

March 16

Still working out what to do with my poor phone. I have decided the water has damaged the battery: it starts to power on and then falls to a black screen in defeat. It's as if there just isn't enough juice to give it the boost it needs to turn on. Florence is without an Apple store, but luckily London has 3! I will be there next weekend in the first leg of my United Kingdom whirlwind spring break. For now, I am going to stick with simple posts until I can get my precious photos back.

It was unreal having Russell here this past week. There were a few times we looked at each other and had to ask ourselves, "Are we really in Italy right now? Together?!" It felt like we were on borrowed time since Russell booked the trip only 12 days before coming after his team's spring break fell through. I know he appreciated having a break from the hecticness of West Point, it was just too bad he didn't get a break from gray weather. There are so many great pictures from his time here, so I'll wait to share those when they've been recovered. We did so much! Climbed the Duomo, took a pizza and gelato making class, hiked at Cinque Terre, took in the view at Piazzle Michelangelo, tried and failed to see Michelangelo's David, walked through the Boboli Gardens, drank Chianti on Chianti, shopped in San Lorenzo, had aperitivo, drank incredible drinks at Art Bar, and my lord did we eat. It was a sad goodbye on Saturday morning, but I have plenty of memories to put a smile on my face.

Saturday, otherwise, was spent returning to normalcy. I caught up on my school readings, grocery shopped at a foreign food store (peanut butter and tofu! Couldn't bring myself to buy a 4 euro can of pumpkin), bought a week's produce at the market, and caught up on sleep. It was a quiet day in the apartment as most of my roommates were traveling and I both loved and hated not having company. I treated myself to a delicious, market-fresh stir fry dinner. Except balsamic vinegar was substituted for soy sauce--a rarity in Italy!

March 15 Blog Update

Hi friends & family,
My iPhone--my love and chief camera and blogging tool--is currently sitting in a bag of dry rice. This is a trick I've heard about to draw water out. After a water bottle with a finnicky lid opened in my purse this afternoon, Mr. iPhone has been totally uncooperative. I have so many great pictures--cooking class, re-visit to Cinque Terre, Russell, great food--to share with you all from the last few days!
Hang with me. Prayers accepted for the phone.
Caroline

March 12

The view from the top of the Duomo. Nearly 500 twisting, winding steps later, Russell and I made our way to the top of the dome. What a view.

March 11

Look who the cat dragged in! Russell arrived today. He made last minute plans to come to Florence after his mandatory parachute team spring break at West Point was canceled last minute. He somehow kept his eyes open for the afternoon and we walked around Florence. We asked a woman at the Ponte Vecchio to take our photo. She had never used an iPhone before and we were left with a horribly off-centered picture where Russell looked as angry as a serial killer and I had my eyes closed. We were cracking up. Russell got very acquainted with the local Chianti and had a serious case of red wine mouth by the end of the night. We grabbed panini at The Oil Shoppe for lunch and had an incredible dinner at Acqua al Due. We ordered a salad sampler, pasta sampler, and dessert sampler. I left with a big smile on my face and a full belly. It is such a treat to have him here!

March 10

The harbor of Cannes, France. This morning I woke up tired, but energized by another day of exploring France! Running on cappuccino, we first went to St. Paul de Vence--a small commune about 40 minutes outside of Nice. Charming to it's core. Small shops, narrow streets, fresh macaroons, happy "Bonjours!" and incredible views. We only had an hour in the town, but I enjoyed speaking to a few shop owners and taking a few too many pictures. Next, we were carted off to Cannes, the city famous for its film festival. The water was stunning. A few crazy people (my guess is that they were visiting from Iceland) were swimming in the water. There was a bustling antique market that sold everything from vintage designer clothing to handmade jewelry to water colors. I enjoyed a spot-on Niçoise salad in the sun at a cafe near the water. We were able to see the theater where the film festival is held and the famous stair case that is covered in red carpet for all of its celebrity visitors. Next, we made the quickest of stops at a perfume factory in Eze called Fragonard. Though my dry hands loved the free Argon oil samples, I thought the stop was silly. I would much rather have had more time in Cannes, as opposed to touring a factory. All-in-all, it was a great weekend, though I felt like I was back in high school again. Because the trip crammed five city visits into a less-than-48-hour-trip, I don't feel like I really experienced France or learned a lot about culture. My eyes came home impressed by all the sights and views, but my brain felt a little culture-deprived. Not a regret at all about the trip, simply an observation about what makes traveling worthwhile and meaningful for me. 

March 9

View of Nice, France. Today, I went on my first "field trip" with LdM. My tuition covers two overnight trips planned by the school. After working hard to plan weekends in Rome and upcoming spring break, it was nice to have all of the planning and legwork done for me! The morning started at 6am when we departed Florence for Monaco by charter bus. After I opened my droopy eyes, I was able to take in the beautiful sights. My oh my, Monaco is ritzy. The streets are filled with expensive cars (even this no-nothing-about-cars-I-drive-a-2000-Accord-girl was impressed by the Lamborghini I saw). Monaco has an extensive, elaborate, rule-driven system for becoming a citizen. It's no easy feat--you must have four generations of connections and moo-lah, but citizens of Monaco have huge perks provided for them. We were told that the elderly citizens are each appointed maids and cooks to help them live on their own. I had a date with my long lost love for lunch--goat cheese--and had an excellent savory crepe. We boarded the bus to Monte Carlo. We honed in our inner Sex and The City characters and went into the famous Monte Carlo casino. Tiny sipping cocktails were served for no less than 16 euro--I did not partake. The toilets in the bathroom sanitized themselves after each use. I really felt like Princess Caroline of Monaco. Next, we headed to Nice where we checked into Univers Hotel and had a walking tour of the city. I was able to walk on the beach! Dinner was on LdM's nickel. We were told to expect (and I am quoting from the iternary) "a delicious set-menu at a typical French restaurant." I am no food snob (okay, just a little), but the dinner was not good. I came to France as a sophomore in high school and our chaperones ordered Pizza Hut for our first dinner in Paris. I needed a redeemed French food experience! Well, a mixed salad, zucchini in tomato sauce, french fries, and a teeny piece of ice cream cake later, the 100 students and I were thoroughly disappointed. One student said, "I'd rather have TGI Fridays than this." Bummer. We took our unsatisfied tummies to get an after dinner drink. I had a great time listening to live music and drinking a cider beer. But, man was I exhausted!

March 8

San Lorenzo Market. Say it ain't so. Street vendors are starting to sell sandals?! My feet have been living in the one pair of boots that I packed. Sandals just say spring! The weather has been markedly warmer this week. No gloves necessary. I hope I don't jinx anything, but I think the winter may be behind us. 

March 7

The Brancacci Chapel. With an unassuming exterior, you would never know that "Florence's Sistine Chapel" lies within the church across the river in the Santo Spirito area. The frescoes are stunning and are said to have inspired Michelangelo. I actually had a group presentation on the chapel this morning, so I am quite the expert. Well, Wikipedia made me as much of an expert as it could. Seeing how beautiful art lingers in every nook and cranny of the city, I look at the hours-long line wrapping the Uffizi every morning and want to encourage people to turn away! Beauty in Florence is not confined to the walls of museums. It's spread far and wide, tucked away, waiting to be found. What a game of hide and seek. 

March 6

Today was the day. The day I learned how to make pasta from scratch. The process is incredibly simple: for every 100g of flour, mix with one egg. Salt will give the pasta a gray color--only salt the water for boiling. Continue kneading on a floured surface until you're holding the smoothest, roundest mound of dough you had no idea you were capable of creating. It is impossible to over-knead; foolproof for even the most kitchen-phobic. Simply let the dough rest in a covering of plastic wrap and then shape the pasta into whatever your heart (mouth? stomach? eyes?) desire. I helped to make orichiette--meaning "little ears" in Italian. It was an exercise in patience. So much work for one little forkful! My professor shared with us why she loves making pasta. She learned how to knead pasta from her grandmother and said that after a long day, kneading dough is the best stress reliever: "No matter what, the dough will always become smooth. It's a guarantee." Chef and philosopher. 

March 5

Living in a 400 year old renovated apartment in the city center of Florence sounds pretty glamorous, right? Well, it just so happens that 400 year old buildings have about 400 problems at any given time. Our water fiasco--no hot water or heating--was temporarily fixed by a pump to monitor water pressure. The pump, however working well for our apartment, filled the bottom floor of the building with a hefty inch of water. To find the source of a leak, a "worker man" (a phrase my family has used since I was little) was in the apartment for no less than 11 hours today. He made a hole in our wall and is trying to find the source of the leak. He speaks zero English, so we played a fabulous game of charades with each other this afternoon where he tried to tell me he was leaving for lunch and that I should expect him in two hours. In case you were wondering, the "lift two hands to your mouth as if you are eating a sandwich" is universal for getting a bite to eat. 

March 4

Everything about this photo has Tuscany written all over it.

March 3

The Coliseum. What I was looking forward to the whole weekend. The Coliseum does not disappoint: it is huge and stately and has a way of transporting you back to ancient times as a spectator for the gladiatorial fights. It isn't necessarily what I thought it would look like from photos and movies I've seen. It is surrounded my tourists and inundated with vendors hassling you to buy their gladiator bobble heads. We chose to go on a tour of the Coliseum and the Roman Forum for a slightly higher price. It was luckily very worth it. It was incredible how intact all of the relics could remain. I hope there is a next time for Rome. With our short amount of time there, we were restricted to the tourisy areas. I still feel like I haven't truly seen the city, but I'm so glad I was able to see the things I've studied in textbooks for years and years. 

March 2

Look ma! I'm in two countries at once. Here I am partially in the Vatican, partially in Italy. This weekend, I was in Rome! What a treat. A quick hour and a half high speed train ride got us right into the city. If Florence is a Boston or Chicago, Rome is certainly New York. Busy, quick-paced, whizzing taxis, and filled to the brim with map-wielding tourists, the city juxtaposes modern life against ancient. Ruins are everywhere. Famous landmarks are around every corner. And in front of every landmark, there is a salesman trying to sell you a key chain. We hit all of the main sights on Saturday: The Vatican, Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, Castle San Angelo. The line to see the Sistine Chapel would have taken us 4 hours, so we opted to skip it in favor of seeing more sights with our limited time. 

March 1

Protesters on via Cavour. It doesn't take more than a quick glimpse at any American newspaper's website to realize that Italy is in the midst of political and economic turmoil. What is strange is that there is no evidence on the streets of Florence. No political posters, no protests, no pesky flyers. Besides my professors mentioning the unemployment rate, I would be completely unaware that anything was unnormal. Today, however, I saw the first protest I have seen since coming to Italy. The group was small (as you can see), and were simply shouting the same chant over and over. Not at all threatening--it even looks like some of the protesters are more interested in talking amongst themselves than shouting--yet the group was surrounded by police officers that are, sadly, out of the frame because their uniforms always make me laugh. From what I could tell, the group was protesting the corruption in the Funzione Pubblica--their department of public services equivalent.