February 28

High tea at the British Institute of Florence's regal library. I read in a local English-speaking magazine that the British Institute hosts a free tea every Thursday afternoon. Always enticed by the "f word," we decided to check it out. Kelsey and I took Liz, a friend from high school visiting from Seville for the night, to the tea. There was a spread of blue china cups, all kinds of teas, tuna sandwiches, and biscuits. Surrounded by many lovely British accents and the ambiance of a cozy library, we sipped our (free) tea and enjoyed the afternoon.

February 27

Taking a traditional spinach and ricotta lasagna dish to the oven in cooking class. Today's focus in class was all about nutrition and the Italian food pyramid. Take away: olive oil is good for ya. My sweet professor went on and on about typical Italian "skinny diets"--her term for a diet designed to lose weight--that left the class cracking up. This lasagna dish couldn't have been easier to make: throw together a quick tomato sauce of canned tomatoes and seasonings, mix ricotta and spinach, layer it all with lasagna noodles. Easy peasy. A girl in the class made the mistake of confusing the salt for sugar when making the tomato sauce. Her face was as red as the sauce when the professor (loudly) corrected her mistake. I could hear dramatic Top Chef theme music in the background as the scene played out. Do I particularly mind sampling lasagnas at 10:30am? Hey, you only study abroad once, right? We also made chocolate covered strawberries, Cantucci (traditional Italian almond biscotti), spinach and ricotta nudi (think gnocchi), and balsamic chicken. 

February 26

Antica Gelateria gelato. Scoops of coffee and pear & cheese--very Florentine. This cup is only 1.50 euros and located dangerously close to my apartment. The gelateria is known for making its own gelato on-site and using the freshest ingredients. A lot of tourist trap shops have tall, beautiful, piped, and decorated mounds of the gelato in their windows. Kelsey's Food & Wine professor informed us that this type is junk. You are paying more for the air in the gelato to make it stand tall than the actual gelato. The most unassuming gelato shops are the best and most authentic. 

February 25

The balcony of Cinema Odeon in Florence's Piazza Strozzi. Well, now that my blood pressure has subsided, I can tell you all about how fabulous Argo was! I was nervous for the characters nearly the entire time. I loved the pacing of the storyline, the prevalence of hilarious 70s mustaches and glasses, humor for smiles, the merging of history with storytelling, and how about that Ben Affleck?! I had movies on the brain all day today. Can you believe I had a pop test in my Italian cinema class today? Let's hope my essay on the 1914 film Cabiria was up to snuff. 

February 24

The birds of Maria Luisa park. The birds flock here and are totally fearless of people, especially people with breadcrumbs. They land on people's heads and arms, and children love to try to pick them up. We started the day at the beautiful Alcazar Gardens--a compound built in 711 by Muslim royalty for entertaining. Imagine the most beautiful blue and yellow tiles, open floor plans, baths, and lush gardens roamed by peacocks. Un. Real. We had a hilarious time dodging runners in Seville's annual marathon. It seemed like their course ran right through every part of the city we wanted to walk. We had lunch outdoors on the river. I had an awesome gazpacho, tapas of traditional chickpeas and spinach, and dessert of a juicy pear. Did ya hear that Florence?! I ate outside in the sunshine--take note, please. Kelsey and I had to leave too early. I could have stayed for weeks longer. Any room in that tiny bedroom of yours, Mags, for one more person?

February 23

My favorite yoga-lovin', happy-go-lucky, best impression-giver friend Maggie! Seville is incredible. The colors are bright the Spanish people are friendly, and the city is calm yet vibrant, modern yet historic. There are bikers and walkers everywhere. We started the day at "The Mushroom"--Seville's architectural crowning achievement, built on top of once-hidden ruins. We walked the city, big time. We saw the river, the Cathedral, Plaza de Espana, the food market, met Maggie's homestay "mom" and so much more. We even found Seville's version of a "secret bakery." There is a convent of nuns that make baked goods and sell them through a lazy Susan embedded within a church's walls. We ended the day at a local Flamenco show. Get this. In one day, we had churros with chocolate sauce, Sangria, and lots of tapas of traditional dishes. We had a great lunch at a vegetarian cafe and grabbed dinner at a famous (and packed) tapas restaurant. How's that for taking in the Spanish culture. 

February 22

Kelsey and I with our backpacks--the airline has very strict carry-on rules--ready to jet-set to Seville. Today, I had my first out-of-Italy trip! My roommate and good friend Maggie is studying abroad in Seville, so Kelsey and I booked a trip to visit her within 3 days of getting to Italy. It was a bit of a Planes, Trains, and Automobiles-esque experience getting there. We needed to walk to the train station to get a bus to Bologna, fly to Seville, get a bus in Seville, get a bus transfer, and then walk to our hostel. Sheesh! Well, I started off on a bad foot when I realized I reserved my bus ticket for 14:00, mistaking it for 4:00pm. Luckily, the bus driver let me take the later shuttle, no problem. Upon arriving to a blizzard in Bologna, Kelsey and I had to walk to a separate terminal to have our passports checked through slush. After delays in boarding our flight, we sat on the runway for 3 hours, waiting for the plane to be de-iced. We arrived in Seville at 1:30am, missing all remaining airport shuttles to the city. A quick cab ride, though, put us right at our hostel--which was fabulous and filled with all kinds of travelers. We arrived at 2am and were happily greeted by a friendly attendant and a "Welcome Caroline & Friend" sign. I made the reservation, so we laughed that Kelsey got knocked off the board. 

February 21

Historic merry-go-round in Piazza della Repubblica. I walk past it every day, but have never stopped for a closer look.

February 20

Weekly cooking class. I bring you traditional tiramisu, vegetable and brown rice soup, and turkey rolled with prosciutto and fontina over spinach. We learned that in order to successfully plate a dish, there must be both height and color involved. Notice the layers of tiramisu with a ladyfinger on top, the colors of the vegetables with the croutons coming forth, and the turkey layered atop the green spinach. Buonissimo! 

February 19

Behold. The cold, icy tomb of Machiavelli himself. He is buried within Santa Croce--a church in the eastern part of Florence that was once the home-base of the Franciscan order and St. Francis of Assisi. We toured Santa Croce today in my Renaissance Civilization and Culture class. I chose this photo because I, in fact, am feeling cold and icy today. It was a chilly day in Florence--we could see our breath as we toured inside the church this morning--and our apartment was down heat and hot water. Talk about a triple whammy. I cannot sing the praises of a good pair of SmartWool brand socks enough! What will this apartment throw at us next?! All major appliances and utilities have been down at some point in the past five weeks. I believe we are due for a fire...

February 18

There are no bike racks in Florence. The Florentines have what I call the Lock, Lock, & Pray method. Lock the front tire. Lock the back tire. Pray no one takes it. And you better pray hard because Florence has a thriving black market of stolen bikes. In fact, it's normal and expected to have your bicycle thieved. My Italian professor told us a funny story about a friend of his that had her bike stolen. A few days after the bike was taken, she saw the bike on a street corner and knew it was hers. She promptly went to a hardware store and bought a saw of sorts to take back what was hers. As she is sawing away at the lock, an angry Italian man comes running towards her asking what she is doing. She says back that she knows that the bike is hers and that he is the real thief. The man agrees, shrugs his shoulders, and goes on with his day.

February 17

Goofing off and stealing a smooch in Florence's stunning Boboli Gardens.  

February 16

Kelsey and Tara cookin' in the kitchen. Putting our newfound culinary skills to use and making a family-style apartment dinner before a night out at Space (a disco-tech made infamous from The Jersey Shore's season in Florence). 

February 15

Tonight was completely reminiscent of a Friday night back home because I spent it at the movies! Cinema Odeon is next to an academic building I have classes in and I was curious about what kind of showings they had. A quick internet search and I found they have three showings a night and student discounts. Sold. There is only one screen and the movie selection changes week to week, most in English with Italian subtitles. The Odeon is glamourous. The theater is impeccably decorated with ornate ceilings, plush yellow velvet chairs, and balcony seating. I felt like I was going to an opera, not a movie! We saw The Perks of Being a Wallflower. Interestingly, the Italian title is We Are Infinite. The movie was both uplifting and depressing. It made me think--I like that! 

February 14

The Duomo. I like to joke that it doesn't seem real. Picture this: you're walking through typical, winding European streets packed with fast-walking people and stores and shops. Everything seems normal, perhaps even run-of-the-mill. Then, all of the sudden, the crowds break and you're in the middle of an open square with your neck cranked looking upwards at an unfathomably huge church that seems to rise up from nothing at all. That's Florence's Duomo for you. The church towers the square and appears both out of place, yet remarkably appropriate at the same time. Its facade is so impeccably ornate that it seems nearly impossible to take in the details even with the most scrutinizing of glances, yet its impossible to overlook its sheer size and grandeur. It appears so serious and somber, yet goofy tourists pose with peace signs by its doors all day. My oh my, it's a paradox all right.

February 13

It's safe to say we know where the rest of my Wednesday photos will be coming from: cooking class. Today we talked about the history of Italian food and why each region developed certain characteristic dishes. It was cool to learn how world history directly affects diet and cuisine. Thank goodness the Medici Family invited French artisans to their castles in Florence, or else we would be living in a gelato-less world. Isn't wild how a 15th century dinner party can affect our lives today? Ok ok, maybe gelato affects some of our lives more than others. Cough cough. The menu for today consisted of spaghetti alla Puttanesca, Pollo alla Cacciatore, and crostata morbida. Spaghetti Puttanesca literally means "prostitute spaghetti" because the capers, tomato sauce, parsley and black olives contribute to such a colorful dish, it is reminiscent of the bright panties of a prostitute. Chicken Cacciatore is better known as "Hunter's Chicken" and developed in the countryside. Crostata morbida--what my group was responsible for making--is a simple, lemony soft jam pie. I'm missing Chapel Hill today and sending all my Beat Dook love across the Atlantic. 

February 12

I love this photo in all of its gold-clad irony. This man, who I see frequently, is one of those street performers who is painted to look like a statue and stands frozen for hours, shifting only once in a while to scare unsuspecting tourists. Well, it must have been a hard day on the streets because I caught him in the middle of a smoke break.

February 11

Did you know it's weird to order a cappuccino after breakfast time? The Italians say that only babies drink milk in the afternoon. Well, call me a baby because I will take a cappuccino at any hour of the day. Though I didn't want to drink this cup because it was just too pretty. Italy: where barista meets artist. 

February 10

Fiera del Cioccolato: the annual chocolate festival held in Piazza Santa Maria Novella every year. Chocolate vendors come from all parts of Italy armed to the teeth with every chocolate concoction imaginable, filling an entire piazza with booths and drooling people. Most creative had to be a vendor offering shots of chocolate liquor out of chocolate shot glasses (Italy smirks at the US's laws about buying alcohol on Sundays). Kelsey and I mastered the "linger." We would linger around each vendor until the offer of a free sample. Basil chocolate was surprisingly refreshing! Don't even get me started on hazelnut fudge. I had my eyes set on a chocolate covered strawberry. After asking for "una fragola, per favore" from a kind-looking old man, he asked for what I thought was twenty cents. After a long stare down, he more clearly said "two euros and twenty cents, please." Thank goodness my chocolate coma kept me from a sticker-shock induced heart attack. You better believe I savored that single strawberry.

February 9

Today was that all about taking a step back. Taking a step back to let it soak in that I was hiking along the Mediterranean; to appreciate that I was spending the day in the national park of Cinque Terre; to slow down to enjoy the renowned local seafood and pesto; to let the National Geographic worthy views sink in. And, quite literally, to step back from the rocky cliffs that made up the trails. Cinque Terre, a northern city made up of 5 towns of colorful homes and beaches, is worthy of a Google Image search. Pronto. Days like today make posting just one photo difficult! What a wonderful problem to have.

February 8

Don't we all want this? A perpetual hand-holding companion and 40 years of conversation over a morning cup of cappucinno.

February 7

Check this looker out. Can you believe that my weekend started today at 2:45? LdM has no Friday classes--in fact, the buildings aren't even open on Friday. This morning, I had the pleasant surprise of having a wildly interesting lecture in Italian Renaissance Civilization. We looked at Florence from the eyes of the Roman Empire. Nerd alert, but it was fascinating. I had Italian this afternoon with the ever-so-entertaining Professor Daniele. He is a hoot. Do any normal 20 year olds use the phrase "a hoot?" Yikes. I had a Skype interview this afternoon with a company based out of Chapel Hill for a killer summer internship. It was a strange reminder of the distance between my two worlds, but went well. I'd also like to give a public shout out to my dad--and likely my only regular reader (ha!)--because today was the first time in the history of the Internet that he blew off an email from me! He has been slammed at work and I feel bad for the guy! Do as the Italians do, Dad, and wipe the stress with a swig of Chianti. I suppose a Friday morning Bruegger's bagel will do the trick, too.

February 6

Don't let the sterile-ness of this photo scare you away. This was a fabulous taste of traditional margherita pizza. This morning, I had the pleaaaasure of attending my first Current Trends in Italian Cuisine class. The sweet professor welcomed us with ricotta and chocolate muffins she prepared at home and brought to class. The lesson of the day was about pizza: the history, the preparation, the consumption, the art. Pizza was developed in the 1500s when some brave soul of a taste tester convinced everyone that tomatoes were not in fact a poison from the New World, but a delicious, edible fruit ideal for sauce. The first pizza was prepared in Napoli for Queen Margherita. Basil, mozzarella, and red sauce to represent the flag of Italy. The rest, you could say, is history. There was so much science involved in the preparation. I loved learning how each small element of a recipe can affect the outcome of the pizza. Add salt to the dough before kneading? You'll kill the yeast. Feel really thirsty after eating at a pizzeria? They used too much yeast. Want a very crispy dough? Step away from filtered water, the calcium in hard water contributes to the crunchy crust. Cheese left a watery layer on top of the pie? Your oven isn't hot enough (ideal temperature is 800 degrees F). Cube cow's mozzarella and slice buffalo mozzarella for an ideal cheese topping. 

February 5

Disney World. It's what the Dean of Students of LdM called Florence. People dream of it, the colors are vibrant, the roads are always being cleaned, the street lamps are always lit, and happy tourists fill every nook and cranny. A paradise in its own right. As I near three weeks in this city, I spent a lot of today reflecting on my life here so far. I took this photo from the beautiful shutters of my bedroom window. I love how familiar everything is becoming. I don't feel like I'm lying any more when someone asks me where I live. What a gift.

February 4

A more appropriate photo for today would have been one of me wearing a brand new outfit, smiling wildly with my backpack on in the driveway. That's right! It was the first day of school! I started the morning with a 5 hour (yikes) photography class. The professor was awesome and had accomplished so much in his field. But, I dropped the class. Go figure. I also had Italian Cinema and Society. Can't wait for this class. Tonight, LdM held a reception dinner at Palazzo Borghese to welcome all 900 spring students to the university. As you can see, the venue was fancy with a capital "F." I, of course, had no idea it was such a fancy affair and wore jeans and Tom's. But, we can forget that ever happened.

February 3

The Mediterranean diet: the hallmark of health and vitality.

February 2

Island of Burano, off of Venice. What. A. Day. Today, we traveled to Venice (3.5 hour drive by bus from Florence) to see the city while it celebrates Carneval. Carneval is a celebration before Lent where the Venetians dress in masked costumes and par-tay. You can imagine my disappointment when the weather had a 100% chance of rain. And rain it did. It truly rained the entire day. And I'm not talking a sprinkle here and there kind of rain. I'm talking a wind-tunnel, "Is my umbrella about to break?," "Can anyone say 'flood warning' in Italian," "Can someone tell me if that's frostbite on my fingers?" kind of rain. The streets were littered with the metal frames of broken umbrellas--which actually was quite funny. Despite the weather, I loved the city! Just something about it. It's very secretive--lots of alleyways, tucked away restaurants, residents hidden behind masks, and hard-to-reach islands. The water taxis were a bit confusing, but very fun to ride from island to island. For lunch, we were hungry and cold and warmed up with pizza. But for dinner, my-oh-my was that a fabulous meal. Kelsey found a restaurant listed on a budget-eats list online (yes, Venice is ex-pen-siveeee) called Taverna del Campiello Reme that boasted a great happy hour deal--what the Italians call "aperitivo."  Dodging behind alleyways, we finally found the un-marked restaurant and Venetian standing outside applauded us for finding it. Upon ordering a drink (I got a peach Bellini) for 8 euro, we could eat at the buffet for no charge. Polenta, pasta, mushroom risotto, an assortment of crustinis. The ambiance couldn't be beat. It reminded me of a rustic, wooden barn--what copycat restaurants in the states strive to be, Taverna did effortlessly. We shared a table with a group of young Venetians. I would love to go back to Venice. Sometimes it was too hard to see the sights with an umbrella and hood blocking what was left of my field of vision. But, it was beautiful to the point that it seemed unreal.

February 1

Today I bring you...a nothing post. Today was filled with not-so-glamourous day-to-day chores. Laundry, dishes, and cleaning. I spent most of my day in that chair, studying for my Italian final (happy to be done!) and then researching travel destinations and perusing blogs. I made a dent into Gone Girl and had a great day of homemade eats. I have a looming tickle in my throat that I'm hoping kiwis and oranges can kick in the butt. It was a slow day, but certainly not a day wasted.